Greece: Wonders of the Ancient World Trip Report June 2023

WONDERS OF THE ANCIENT WORLD TOUR – JUNE 2023
Support Rider, Hugh Donaldson, reports on our 21-day tour to Greece.

Day 1
We are off to a great start today as we leave a chilly England behind.  21 day tour with Richard Evans at the helm.  Only a small group on this one, but with Magellan’s flexibility we pick up another rider on the Greek mainland.
Through some lovely scenic farming areas today with a quick look at the abandoned GP track at Gueux. Stopping overnight at the Renard Hotel in the Beautiful Charlons-en-Champagn; and did I mention it’s 30 degrees?
Off to the Vosges mountains tomorrow, can’t wait

Day 2
The five of us arrived at Charlons en Champagne and had a fantastic first night, enjoying a lively meal in the bustling square.  This morning, fuelled by a hearty breakfast, we embarked on our journey through miles of expansive farmland under the morning sun and 21-degree weather.  Along the way, we encountered unexpected sights, making our coffee and cake breaks even more thought provoking.  Finally, we arrived safely in La Bresse, nestled in the beautiful Vosges mountains. The N and D roads finishing the day off with lots of twisters.  Tonight’s meal is booked, it’s not all about the great roads, company and food you know!

Day 3
We started the day prepared for the forecasted rain, which was expected to be heavy all through the afternoon.  Our journey from the hotel led us straight into the captivating Alsace region.  As a former police dog handler, I was thrilled to visit the birthplace of the Alsatian (German Shepard): I had wanted to visit the area for a long time.  The roads through the forest were exceptional, surrounded by breathtaking scenery.
Heading off then towards Zurich the rain eventually arrived, but it was not as predicted and passed over quickly.  We made our way up the Oberalp Pass, and rewarded ourselves with coffee and pastries at its summit.  More great roads and views on the way down the other side, before we descended into Flims, Switzerland.  We arrived at Hotel Bellevue, tired but incredibly content with our day’s adventure.

Day 4
We leave the village of Flims as we head to tonight’s destination, Lake Garda.  We made our way up the Splugen Pass; the top is the gateway into Italy and we took a few minutes taking some pictures.  Heading off again towards lunch by Lake Como, passing through the most beautiful scenery along the way, including the Viamala Canyon.  A leisurely lunch was taken along the shore of Lake Como, before heading off for the famous town of Bergamo for coffee and cake.  A short run later brought us along the shores of Lake Garda and the hotel Adria.  What a surprise that the hotel put on finger food and drinks to welcome their Magellan guests, it was very much appreciated.

Days 5 & 6
After riding through the Apennines and around Bologna we arrived in the part of Italy most affected by the recent, terrible flooding.

Leaving the devastation of Faenza behind today.  At breakfast we find most of the guests are service workers helping rebuild following the flood: many going to work in their wellies.  Piles of water damaged materials were removed overnight: they are working hard.  The hotel is hoping to be fully functioning by next month!
Our ferry has been replaced which means a short delay, more cakes
A leisurely ride along the coast today via Rimini , Pesaro and Fano.
Tea by the port as we wait for our ferry, Hellenic Spirit, to slide into port and whisk us all off

Day 7
As the ferry was late departing we were later than planned arriving in Greece and the rain beat us here.  The scenery looks promising even through the rain.  Motorways on this afternoon to make up a little time and we still managed a coffee off the beaten track.  Ian modelled his new and improved rain defeating not! over trousers
I found a screw in my tyre and so that’s some of tomorrow morning spoken for
We new we were coming to the end of our afternoon ride as we saw the Meteora rocks rising ahead of us close to our destination Kalampaka.  We have our new rider, Peter, who we met up with at tonight’s hotel Kastraki.
Tabepva Ziwya was a great place to dine this evening, giving us all time to grill Peter (get to know him).  I think it’s looking good for tomorrow.

Day 8
Day off the bikes today, except for Richard Evans and myself.  Richard came with me to sort my puncture in case of delays.  Small screw the type to keep your kitchen cabinet door on!
Richard organised a couple of local taxis with an English speaking guide and off we went to explore the Meteora hanging monasteries, the most famous of these being the Holy Trinity.  It became the celebrity among the other monasteries of Meteora when in 1981, James Bond 007 film titled “For Your Eyes Only” used the monastery for filming. The area is now said to be the second biggest tourist draw in Greece after the Acropolis and Parthenon (still to come )
Lazy afternoon for us all before heading out this evening for more great Greek cuisine.
Off to Volos tomorrow via Mount Olympus.  The weather has picked up, let’s go

Day 9
We head off to the port of Volos today towards Mount Olympus.  Our first coffee stop was in a small village of Karpero.  We were greeted by a very excited chap on a little step through Honda; he was obviously happy but very animated.  Anyway he rode off and the coffees were ordered. Three minutes later he’s back on his BMW and in international biker language told us all about it (he was good enough to pose for a photo).
Mount Olympus is just enormous but we were only able to get a glimpse as the cloud cleared the summit momentarily.
By now we are used to the huge number of dogs that make the roadsides their home.  Today, however, was tortoise day; quite a few were seen on or near the road, all alive
The Leptokorya Serpentine Rd just happened to be close to our route and needed riding
The seaside at Platamonas was visited for an ice cream and cool drink.
Volos is a very busy vibrant place and we are off shortly to explore.
Athens tomorrow

Day 10
We leave Volos behind and head out into the homeland of Hercules and also the monument to King Leonidas and 300 Spartans, who perished fighting against Xerxes and his massive Persian army.
After refueling on handmade ice cream we headed into Athens.  The guide book did say don’t drive in the centre of Athens.  We are 30 minutes out of Athens centre, I will just say of the last 32km to the hotel.  Wow, like London but on acid

Day 11
Day off the bikes again today.  We have had the day in Athens visiting the Acropolis and Hadrians Library.  We organised a tour guide in advance with the help of the staff at Hotel Palmyra Beach.  This took the experience to another level, her knowledge was fantastic.
We also took advantage of the City bus tours, getting round all the sights.
Food and drinks obviously kept our attention before returning to the hotel for a swim
Exploring the old town of Glyfada which is walking distance from the hotel this evening, searching out more local restaurants to check out.
Nafplio tomorrow, wonder what that will bring

Day 12
Leaving the hustle and bustle of Athens behind we snake along the coast of the Gulf of Corinth.  A beautiful area and very quiet at the moment.  Cutting over the headland to the Corinth Canal, I hope our photos do some justice to the work that must have been undertaken to complete this 80-metre deep navigable ship canal.
In true fashion after a light bite to eat we are off again to see an amphitheatre at Epidavrou which is believed to have been constructed at the end of the 4th century BC. It is said, that a audience member can hear the orator speaking from the central podium stone from any of the 14,000 seats, and so our trusty guide, Richard Evans, was dispatched to the top, and it’s true, unbelievable!
Arriving at Nafplio after dodging the rain for a night at the Amalia hotel, perhaps a walk to the ancient fortress of Tiryns after tea

Day 13
Heading off to Kalamato we hope to avoid a lot of the rain that has been forecast.  Not totally successful but we tried.  We first made the most of the gentle sweeping bends around the Aegean Coast before cutting across the mountains and on to Sparta, the birthplace of Helen of Troy.  We stopped for lunch just outside Sparta in a small tavern below the Byzantine citadel of Mistras; the rain was against us here, not the best time to explore.
The twisties of route 82 are great but caution in the wet.
Tonight’s hotel, the Atki Taygetos resort.  We are told of an underground tunnel to a bar by the beach cheers.

Day 14
…which means we are moving northwards, but not until we have had a couple of nights in Olympia.  Stopping en route at the Temple of Apollo Epikourios, which is undergoing some serious restoration at the moment.  It has been enclosed in a giant circus-like tent as the work continues.
I do have a small camera on my helmet and hope to show you some of the unexpected things we see, without boring you all
Lunchtime was spent passing half an hour away in the shade, in a very sleepy corner of Greece, the village of Andritsaina.
Short day today, ready for exploring Olympia tomorrow.  Pool time

Day 15
We are in Olympia, and it wouldn’t be right not to see the ancient site of the first reported Olympic Games in 776BC.  We took in the ruins and also the museum which is on site.  You need to come and see it for yourself to truly get it.  I hope the few pictures I post do it justice.
We also took time to visit the Archimedes museum.  Lunch was found in the square with a leisurely walk back to the hotel for a swim and some sun.

Day 16
Short but hot day today.  You know you are in trouble when it’s 28” at 10am.  Couple of hours down the coast on some great lazy winding roads, before lunch close to the port as we say goodbye to Greece.  One thing about the Greeks they do like to check your ticket and reg plate.  There were at least four separate checks before boarding.  We are all aboard safe and sound.  Italy tomorrow

Day 17
Most of the day spent on the ferry, topping up our tans and making the most of the aircon.
Arriving in Ancona before 5pm to be greeted with temperatures upwards of 36 degrees.
Motorways on up to Cesena.  Richard Evans and I took a small detour to visit the flagship store of 9 times world motorcycle champion, Valentino Rossi, in the small town of Tavullia.  Unfortunately, we couldn’t make use of his restaurant as we were all booked in for a traditional Italian meal this evening.
A good day today as always. Long run tomorrow as we run back into Switzerland.

Day 18
You always get at least one long day on these trips, it’s just how it is to get you across country.  Our objective was 500km today.  Lots of motorway miles helped eat these up.
This afternoon we moved to Switzerland en route for France tomorrow.  Lake Maggiore was beautiful and the neighbouring hotels a nod back to a decadent past.  Up into the mountains and the galleria tunnels were like a scene from a James Bond movie. I have tried a short video clip, tomorrow I will put it in the right way up
Bed tonight is in the mountains at Ausserberg, just stunning.

Day 19
Back to the land of chateaus.
Although we are winding our way home it has been a great day, fast sweeping bends, country roads mirroring the bends of the rivers we follow.  The views have been amazing, a lot of N and D roads full of local bikers playing !!
We Called in at Montreux where Freddy Mercury made his home in France, by Lac Leman.
We are staying in Besançon, right in the heart of its centre.
Those of you who know me should be able to spot the classic McFlurry
Table is booked and showers taken, and out we go

Day 20
Although we are homeward bound we have had another day of of fabulous roads. Taking on the Vosges mountains first.  To make the day more interesting a full scale cycle race was well established by the time we arrived.  Not like the UK nothing was closed off, it was literally everyone for themselves.  They are truly bonkers
Our mile munching was done much along the D994.  Known as Liberty Road (French La voie de la Liberte) is the commemorative way marking the route of the Allied forces from D-Day in June 1944.  It starts in Sainte-Mère-Église, in the Manche département in Normandy, France, travels across Northern France to Metz and then northwards to end in Bastogne in Belgium, on the border of Luxembourg.
Arriving in Reims in the afternoon for our final meal, and light show at the Cathedral, before we go our own ways tomorrow.

Day 21
Well that’s it, in a flash and great memories it’s all over.
As most of the group had made alternative plans for home it was just Richard Evans and myself taking the back roads to the Chunnel, stopping in at Arras for lunch.
It was great to meet another Magellan member, Anna Bielenica-Brymer, who coincidentally had been following our Greece trip, at the passenger terminal at the Chunnel.  I think this tour is a definite maybe for her
Richard and I said our see you later’s on the train and we were off.
See ya soon hopefully

If you’ve enjoyed following our tour of Greece then we’re sure you’d love to ride the tour in person.  Check-out our website for the next tour date.